News rover registration key crack2/6/2024 When I got home I found that the new key fob remotely locks & unlocks the car. I pressed the old remote & then started with the new key. It turned in the ignition lock but the engine immobilised message displayed as the car had been left unlocked while I went to collect the key. The remote didn't either lock or unlock when I first tried it. I realised that it needed synching with the car which I thought was done by the coil in the ignition lock triggering the remote but as I think this coil isn't working I did wonder what was going to happen. According to the JLR delivery note it's Key 3. So it they supply a number 1 and it is the number 1 that was lost previously so you have a number 2, you'll be able to have both keys synced (and set your memory seats for two settings).Īmazingly this morning I got a text from Lookers - Land Rover Colchester that my new key fob was in stock. I think I read that all replacement keys are number 1 and you can only have one number 1 synced at any one time. As new cars were supplied with two, numbers 1 and 2 which correspond to the seat memories. Don't suppose you know what key you have already? The lockset bar code, that information that dictates whether a key will work with your car or not can support 4 keys. As long as they get it right, you'll need to sync it when it arrives but other than that you'll be fine. Prices for the genuine keys seem to vary wildly depending on what dealer you go to, anything from £180 up to near £400. Microcat, the spares system will know the VIN from the registration number (and vice versa) anyway, so as long as it still has the same plate as when new, it'll be correct. If you're ever heading West, I'll have a run to the East and we could meet somewhere (socially distanced of course) and I'll turn it off for you. Nanocom can turn passive immobilisation off in about 30 seconds. No idea how much the guy in Wales charges for a key but UK keys are still available from Land Rover as long as you can show them your V5 to prove it is your car.Ĭoil isn't listed as a separate piece, it's shown in the parts listing as part of the ignition lock. If I need to use one of them I can enter the EKA in the door lock or with the Nanocom that lives in the car anyway. I have only ever had one remote key so had a couple of key blades cut as spares. I turned off passive immobilisation so I didn't need to do that ever again. The coil on my car failed years ago so I had to do the same as you and press the unlock button if I didn't start the engine as soon as I'd unlocked the car. However, it isn't unknown for the coil to fail meaning you have to do it manually. If passive immobilisation is enabled, a coil around the ignition switch will cause the key to transmit an unlock code (simulate pressing the unlock button) as soon as you put the key in the ignition. If you have passive immobilisation still enabled in the BeCM (which it will be unless someone has turned it off), the immobiliser kicks in if you unlock the car with the fob but don't start within 30 seconds. If the EKA is entered with a Nanocom rather than the wiggling the key in the door lock method, you can then lock and unlock with the key and it won't need the EKA again (although you stand a good chance of wearing out the keyswitch microswitch in the latch if using the key all the time). If locked with the fob and unlocked with the key, it will need the EKA entering or unlock pressing on the remote to turn off the immobiliser. Money isn't the issue what I want is a safe & reliable solution that also gives me a spare key. Googling reveals various companies offering various keys, fobs or services for keys or fobs but I'm not sure which ones I can trust & again I'm very reluctant to trust the Royal Mail with only key fob that I have. Can I get a new key & fob anywhere? Is there some way of switching off the engine immobiliser so I don't need to use the remote? I've read through some of the discussions on key fobs & BECMs etc & now I am terrified that I'm going to get locked out with no way of operating the car. I've just spent £450 getting the front air springs replaced (rear ones & pump were done last year) so intend keeping the car as long as it will last & is repairable. I am reluctant to send the fob off to be refurbished as not only does the service now cost almost £50 but I'm very nervous about losing the only key that I have in the post. The rubber unlock button is now once again very tatty & operation very iffy. It only came with one key fob which became so tatty that a couple of years ago I had it refurbished by posting off to a guy on eBay. I have owned my 2001 P38 4.6L Vogue for over 10 years.
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